Are you ready for this adventure?
It could be
quite surprising to find crypts in Venice, since this city is entirely
surrounded by water… however, several churches have some sort of basements that were originally used as burial places. Unfortunately,
most of them are today unusable.
Venice from above
Nonetheless, there are
some crypts that can be visited in Venice (on the most famous among them, the crypt of Saint Mark’s Basilica, will write a separate post).
The Crypt of San Simeon Piccolo
The church of the Saints Simon and Judas (commonly referred to as San Simeon Piccolo)
is located opposite the railway station “Venezia Santa Lucia”, on the other side of the Grand Canal. It is quite striking especially because of the green copper dome and the high stairway that leads to the entrance.
The Church of San Simeon Piccolo
Right underneath the area used for the holy functions
we can find a crypt that is a artistically unique in our city.It is a totally
dark place: in order to explore it you need to turn on the torch of your mobile phones. Otherwise,
you can ask the guardian for a candle, which is much more suggestive!
Visiting the crypt by candle light
The ceilings and the walls were decorated roughly in
between 1750 and 1850. On the walls we can admire
scenes of the Via Crucis (the Way of the Cross): the
colors are light and delicate, the skin of the figures is light pink, the yellows are very soft.
Scenes from the Via Crucis
These paintings date back to the 1700’s, the painter probably was well acquainted with Scalfarotto, the architect that projected the church.
Scenes from the Via Crucis
The paintings on
the ceilings date back to
the 1800’s, and their
colors are totally different:
gold and bloody red dominate the scene, along with
black. In certain areas the paintings
become monochromatic.
The ceilings
The themes are different as well: we can mainly
see bones, skulls, episodes of the Old Testament, and
a really impressive full size skeleton!
Detail of the ceiling
The Skeleton
In 1806 the crypt
was dismissed as a burial place (but some tombs are still evident). It became then a
meeting place for those who professed the cult of the dead, and later even for Freemasons.
The Crypt of San Zaccaria
In the church of San Zaccaria (St. Zachary)
the crypt is quite simple, bare; nonetheless it is really fascinating.
The legend has it that this is one of the eight churches that were founded in Venice by St. Magnus, Bishop of Oderzo, who moved to these islands in the
VII century.
The Church of Saint Zaccaria
However, there is no evidence of such early buildings in this area. We know that a church was built here under Doge Giustiniano Partecipazio in the IX century and that it was eventually modified in the X and XI centuries.
The crypt then might date back to the X or XI century. It is located under Saint Tarasio’s chapel, which used to be the apse of the previous gothic church (entering this chapel do not miss the
beautiful frescos by Andrea del Castagno and the
polyptychs by Vivarini).
Frescoes by Andrea del Castagno and Polyptych by Antonio Vivarini
In the crypt, unfortunately,
no element of early decoration has been preserved, except for a marble altar with
a sculpture of the Holy Mary on top.
The Holy Mary
We know that
it used to host the tombs of eight among the Doges of the early centuries of the Venetian Republic. The three nave structure is very elegant, with cross vaults supported by short columns with simple capitals.
The Crypt of the Church of San Zaccaria
This crypt is located
below the average sea level, which means that
some water is present in there for most of the time, as you can see in the picture. During
exceptional acqua alta (floods) the crypt is entirely flooded, and the consequences, as far as its preservation is concerned, are quite dramatic.
The Flooded Crypt
If you think this
underground Venice is fascinating,
book a guided tour with us!Ciao!
Contacts:
info@guidedtoursinvenice.comRelated articles and itineraries:
Unusual guided tours in Venice: the Santa Croce DistrictUnusual tours: Frescoes in Venice from darkness into light